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“Two hours later he stood on top of the plateau, the river basin spreading for many miles around before him, something like a gigantic landscape bowl with rims formed by gently sloping hills and steep mountain chains; while the faraway river mouth was covered with new-ploughed fields, cultivated gardens and olive groves. An absolutely special atmosphere of intimacy filled this bowl. Though the sea was close enough to see it from the hill top, there was nothing maritime, salty or sandy, or open in it – only quiet detachment, as if the coast was a few days away.” Here is how contemporary writer Patrick Sueskind describes the outskirts of Grasse in his novel “Perfume”: “On the other edge of this huge bowl, about two miles away, was a town lying or better say huddling against steep mountains … It dominated the big aromatic bowl, scent-laden at its feet and was seemingly satisfied with it”.
Grasse is a city of fragrances. Filled with the scent of oleanders, orchards and vineyards, Grasse has been chosen as a scene of action for romance for good reason. Since early times, it has been well known for its perfumers, who master the art of making perfumes and fragrant oils. The finest examples of this art are exhibited in the Grasse International Perfume Museum. The traditional holiday in August – Grasse Jasmine Festival – is also worth mentioning. At a time when vegetables are gathered in Central Europe, and fruits are gathered in the South, in Grasse the time is ripe… for jasmines. The Grasse Jasmine Festival celebrates the start of harvesting.
Not only fragrances, but also landscapes and views of Grasse are so poetic that they attract the best creative artists from around the world. Ivan Bunin, whose cherished dream was to buy a house in this place, lived here for a long time; Edith Piaf passed away in this city.
The route of Napoleon’s army ran through Grasse; the Emperor’s appeal to the nation and soldiers was printed in the local print shop. Pauline, Napoleon’s sister, decided to use Grasse as a health resort. To this day healing scented air of Grasse strengthens, sets a lyrical mood and teaches us to take deep breaths…
In this city separated by 10 km of highlands from the coast there are no large-scale enterprises or business centers, no bustle of Cannes or stiffness of Nice. Local citizens love their city and you start to understand why when you come here. “Mist or even haze was hanging above the fields, and the scents of grass, furze and roses rising from below seemed to be washed clean, simple and simply comforting”, is what Perfume says about the air of Grasse.
People leave Paris or the hectic Côte d’Azur to come here and find a sense of peace and tranquility.
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